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fStops Camera Club

Long Exposure
John Grusd

John Grusd website
Exposure is an in-camera technique done in order to achieve a specific effect that is integral to the image. It is beyond leaving the shutter open simply to get the correct exposure.  For instance, if my camera is on “Automatic” and I’m in a dark room, the shutter may stay open for 20 seconds just to get a proper range of luminosity. That’s not what we are talking about here. It is the resultant effect caused by a long exposure that is important! Typically this involves streaking or blurring but I’m open to anything else the maker might think of. In any event, it requires the photographer to take control of the camera to achieve the desired effect.

So, how long is a “Long Exposure”? I would say that a long exposure, done correctly, is as long as it needs to be.
For instance, if you are standing next to a fast moving stream and you want to show motion in the water, a fifth of a second may be all you need (Example 1). At the other end of the scale, star trails might be the result of an hour and a half of (composited) exposures (Example 2) 
Some other examples:
Example 3 – A crowded pedestrian street in Rome, 1.3 seconds.
Example 4 – The Rain Room at LACMA, 1/8 second.
Example 5 – Monterey Bay, 13 Seconds.
Example 6 – County Fair, 4 Seconds.
Example 7 – Point Buchon, 30 Seconds.
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
Example 4
Example 5
Example 6
Example 7
​As for scoring in the assigned category, I will be looking for the effect of long exposure as an integral part of the image but I will also consider composition and technical expertise. Every judge of any assignment would still always consider the artistic and technical merits above all. If it’s a great effect but a poor composition or has glaring technical problems, it won’t score well. Any processing is fine with me as long as the long exposure effect was captured with the camera.
Here are a few suggestions to help you to achieve great long exposures:
  1. Use a tripod, a remote shutter release and mirror lock-up to steady the camera.
  2. A neutral density (ND) filter may be necessary if the subject is brightly lighted. These cut down the light entering the lens so you can increase the exposure time. My personal favorite arsenal of ND’s are a Polarizer (about 1 ½ stops), a 3 stop, 6 stop and a 10 stop. Do not stack filters! Another good option is an Adjustable ND filter that will get you all of the above and more.
  3. Once you get the exposure correct, set the camera to Manual.
  4. If you are using a dark ND, you will need to compose and focus before you attach the filter because you won’t be able to see anything through the viewfinder. Then tape your focus and Zoom rings so they can’t move accidentally.
  5. You won’t get the shot on the first try. Getting what you want can be very much a product of trial and error. Play with it, make adjustments and have fun with it!
Hope this helps. Let me know if it works for you guys.
​
All the best,
jg

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